How Women Surfers Can Save the World: A Call to Action

So what IS it about the water? What is inspiring these communities of women to gather, to circle, to uplift, to educate? What is this primal force that is calling to women, “listen to the water, come to the water, and gather?” Why GIVE? Why not just battle for our waves?

Why — And How — to Watch Women’s Surfing in the Olympics — The Paddle Out — Part 3

So when you are watching these magical creatures flow effortlessly through blue-green mountains and foaming peaks, you are actually watching sprinters, hurdlers, steeplechase masters, marathoners, and gymnasts, perform feats during which many of us would actually PERISH if we attempted.

Why — And How — To Watch Women’s Surfing in the Olympics -Part 2, The Wipeout

What you don’t see when a surfer falls off a wave, is what happens underneath it. Waves have a circular motion when they break that I could best describe as a churning combustion chamber. The foam, which looks soft and heaven-like from a distance, is actually more like a pounding, thrashing explosion, and when you are inside of it, you are a part of that explosion. Lest you think that smaller waves weaken in their intensity, smaller waves can be more hammering than large ones, because the enormous power of the wave is unleashed in a tiny corridor, with maybe just a foot or two of water to act as a “cushion,” — if you can call a thrashing explosion a cushion — between the surfer and the ocean floor.