How Women Surfers Can Save the World: A Call to Action

So what IS it about the water? What is inspiring these communities of women to gather, to circle, to uplift, to educate? What is this primal force that is calling to women, “listen to the water, come to the water, and gather?” Why GIVE? Why not just battle for our waves?

Why — And How — To Watch Women’s Surfing in the Olympics — Part 6 — Maneuvers and Scoring

Judges are interested in pushing surfers to the edge of their ability, so they want to see the surfer take most powerful, difficult wave. Pro surfers want those too. The waves that most of us would whimper and run from are exactly the waves that get the pros frothing. So the first part of the score is what the wave will actually ALLOW the surfer to do. The bigger the wave, the bigger the score, if they are able to “convert” that wave — to do some bigass maneuvers that are humanly impossible. Other factors include how the wave peels, how long it holds up, and how steep the wall (or face) is, especially in the first two turns.

Why — And How — To Watch Women’s Surfing in the Olympics — Part 5 — The Surfer

What you don’t see with the surfer:

Reflexes — insane. Thousands of pounds of wind and water are steamrolling, shifting, changing, morphing, in an ever-changing environment, and the surfer is adapting instantaneously through every second of the ride.

Decision-making — nuts. With all the variables described so far in this article, the surfer brings their thousands of hours of water experience, training, and talent to every moment of every wave. There is never a second that it relents. Decisions are made from the moment they see the wave on the horizon, until they have completed, or not completed, the ride.

Consequences — unparalleled. If you miss a ball in basketball, you disappoint your team. If you fall in gymnastics, snowboarding, pairs ice skating, you can be badly injured by the cold hard ground, but you still can at least assess your environment. If you misjudge a 10-foot wave, you could be drilled by the lip into a jagged reef, held down by the wave, cut, concussed, or drowned.

Why — And How — to Watch Women’s Surfing in the Olympics — Part 4 — The Wave

Now we journey into the details of the most torrid of love affairs, one with the most immediate consequences, and the most complicated relationship of a surfer’s life- the wave.

Unlike any other playing field, the constant in surfing is change. No wave is ever the same. Even in the most consistent breaks (surf areas), every wave poses a new challenge. It would kind of be like snowboarding, if the half-pipe kept shifting size and direction, if the mountain slid, rose, fell, and churned. If the snowboarder had to paddle to catch it to even try their graceful carves. If, in order to fly high above the edge, they had to choose the right one, and read the shifting banks, and navigate the angle of lift just as the edges collapsed.

Why — And How — to Watch Women’s Surfing in the Olympics — The Paddle Out — Part 3

So when you are watching these magical creatures flow effortlessly through blue-green mountains and foaming peaks, you are actually watching sprinters, hurdlers, steeplechase masters, marathoners, and gymnasts, perform feats during which many of us would actually PERISH if we attempted.